How to sew a park with your own hands?

Parka - truly universal clothing. It is suitable for both hiking enthusiasts and residents of large cities who are generally not inclined to travel. You can wear it with jeans, and with a skirt, and even with an evening dress made of light flying fabric. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to find an interesting style in ready-made clothes shops, and sewing in an atelier is a rather expensive pleasure. Is there a way out? Of course have. Take the needle and try to do everything yourself. About how to sew a park with your own hands, you will learn from the article.

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What could be the park?

To sew a female park with your own hands, you will need some materials. Look, maybe there is something in your closet - if not for the main parts, then at least for additional ones. Now in fashion:

• elbow patches - leather and waxed fabric;
• leather pockets:
• knitted cuffs;
• Fur hem on sleeves and hood.

Important! And do not be shy - it may well be that you will come up with some details that clothing designers are not even aware of. But for starters, of course, you need to think about how to sew the park without any additional decorations.

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What to sew from?

The traditional material for the park is canvas. It is best to sew from it, fortunately, there is no shortage of such fabrics now. The canvas has sufficient width - as a rule, it is 150 cm. But, if there is nothing suitable in the store, you can use other materials:

• raincoat fabric;
• Bologna
• Payee
• tarpaulin.

Important! It should be noted, however, that the tarpaulin may be too heavy for the fragile female shoulders, in addition, not every machine will take it. But the raincoat fabric in the store is almost always there, it is sewn easily, practically does not crumble. Bologna and the visitor are not bad materials, but they must be sewn with synthetic threads, cotton ones will tear very quickly. It is easiest to build an avisient with a soldering iron or a burner.

How much material is needed?

The calculation of the fabric is made depending on the size, but in any case, with a cut width of 150 cm, even for the largest lady with curvaceous shapes, no more than 3.5 m will be needed.

Important! The standard consumption is 3.3 m, this is enough for jackets of almost any female size.

What else is needed?

To sew the park on your own and not look like a scarecrow in the garden, you need some additional materials - they will make your jacket look very much like a company jacket. You will need:

• non-woven;
• detachable zipper (60-65 cm, depending on size);
• about 5 m of cord;
• Velcro tape 2 cm wide - about 10 m;
• twill tape 10 cm;
• blocks breaking through - 2;
• 4 half rings with a diameter of 1.5 cm;
• 2 rivets;
• sewing supplies;

It is always useful to have such things as silk paper for patterns, scissors (dressmaking and paper), pencils, a centimeter, pins (dressmaking), crayon, glue stick, carbon paper, sewing needles.

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How to sew a park - pattern

Outerwear is best sewn according to the finished patterns, especially if there are additional details such as a hood and pockets. You can easily find a park pattern in any company fashion magazine, for example, in Burda.Moreover, on the sites of popular design firms systematically lay out drawings for such products, so it remains only to choose the size. This will not be the case.

Important! Parka - the jacket is loose enough, and if you make a mistake a couple of centimeters, nothing bad will happen.

And then everything is simple:

1. Tracing paper is superimposed on a sheet of patterns.
2. Details are outlined exactly in size - be sure to note that all patterns are from the same model, on the sheet of patterns from the magazine all lines are mixed up. But each product has its own designation, you will find it next to the image of the jacket.
3. Be sure to put all the markings - arrows, points of alignment of the sleeves and the hood, the stitching line of the pocket and valve.
4. On some patterns, the contours of oblique beaks, bracelets and edges are given for certain details - translate them as well, this will save you a lot of problems.

Important! The contours of additional parts on the sheets of patterns are not always printed, in which case they should be drawn directly on the fabric.

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How to lay out patterns?

Sewing is a costly affair, and you should not waste material. It is necessary to decompose the patterns so that:

• they all fit;
• the direction of the thread was observed - the main fragments are cut along the shared, some details - along the oblique;
• space left for allowances and additional details.

Since the main parts are almost all paired, the fabric can be immediately folded in half, for example, along a shared thread. The material you have is most likely plain, so you do not need to customize the pattern. If you took a pattern from a company magazine, it is best to use the editorial advice on how to distribute details most economically on a cut. In total, you should be able to:

• 2 shelves:
• 2 backrests;
• 2 sleeves;
• 2 front parts of the hood;
• 2 sidewalls of a hood;
• 2 back of the hood;
• 2 visor details;
• 2 valves;
• 2 picks;
• 2 bottom hemings for the shelf and back.

Of course, you need to cut on the wrong side, that is, the fabric should be folded with the front side inward. It is useful to pin the patterns, especially if you used a rolled tracing paper, which tends to curl. After all the parts are laid out and circled, outline the allowances - it is convenient to do this according to the ruler. The allowance is 1.5 cm wide.

What else do you need to carve out?

If there were no small parts on the pattern sheet, they should be drawn directly onto the fabric. You should be able to:

• 2 edging for pockets - their size is 22x4 cm, but it can also differ in one direction or another;
• neckline (cuts obliquely);
• upper drawstring (strip about 110 cm long and 6 cm wide, but the size may be slightly larger or slightly smaller, depending on size);
• cuffs - 2 rectangles 4 cm wide and about 40 cm long (plus or minus 1 cm, depending on size);
• 2 long straps (9 cm long);
• 2 short straps (7 cm each), the width of both is 3 cm.

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We cut a flizelin

Some parts must be pasted with non-woven in order to keep their shape. The following details are strengthened with non-woven fabric:

• pick;
• cuffs;
• pocket valves:
• bracelets.

Place the appropriate details (paper patterns or finished fragments) on the non-woven fabric and circle, and then cut, not forgetting about the allowances:

1. Place the seamy side on the adhesive side of the non-woven fabric.
2. Align all slices.
3. Iron the gasket.

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We start with the little things

They say that the devil is in the details, and this fully applies to sewing outerwear. Convenience of assembly depends on the quality of processing small elements, and ultimately the look of your jacket.

Before you sew a women's park with your own hands, prepare the details:

1. Take paired parts with non-woven and non-woven - for example, valves.
2. Fold them with their faces, carefully aligning all the edges.
3. Sew along the contour, leaving only the cut that will be attached to the shelf open.
4. Turn out.
5. Iron.
6. Make a finishing stitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the seam.
7. Iron the open allowance on the wrong side.
8. Stitch the valves to the shelves strictly along the stitching lines - it is very convenient to use Velcro tape for such purposes, the valve is simply first glued with an adhesive pencil, and then sewn. But, if there is no tape, you can just sweep it.

Grinding pockets

Fold the pocket hem in half along the length of the front side out. Ironing the bend. We outline the alignment line at a distance of 1 cm from the line along which the stitching will be sewn:

1. Align the grind with the intended grind line - open cuts should be on the marking.
2. Sew on the part.
3. Unscrew the allowance on the seam, bite or pin.
4. Sew and sew on the valve.

We process slots

On the shelf you have a line for sharpening your pocket. Cut it so that 1 cm remains to the end of the grind. This must be done very carefully so as not to cut through what should remain intact. Unscrew the pocket turning towards the cut, and the valve - vice versa.

Sew the stocks and iron together. Farther:

1. Stitch burlap - you need to start with a smaller part.
2. Bast it face to face.
3. Stitch.
4. Overlap allowances together.
5. Sew a large part in the same way.
6. Sew both pieces of burlap together.

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Putting together the main details

Pockets are a delicate matter, and if they are ready, you can proceed to the next steps. The hood must also be handled carefully, but for starters it’s better to put it all together. The order at this stage will be traditional:

1. Take the picks to the shelves by inserting the free ends of the detachable zipper into the seam - for this, the parts need to be folded with their faces to each other, chopped and stitched.
2. Unscrew the underboard to the wrong side and iron.
3. Make a second subboard.
4. Sweep the shoulder and side seams, grind them.
5. When attaching the sleeve, pay special attention to the alignment points - they should coincide on the okay and armhole.

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Hood

To start, we sweep and stitch all the details:

1. Sew to the front part a strip - a strip cut along the oblique.
2. We drive in 2 rings below.
3. When the hood is ready, combine the lower part with the edge of the neck - and do not forget about the points! We sew, iron allowances on the side of the jacket and overcast together.

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Sleeves

Cuffs are made for the bottom of the sleeves, you have already cut them:

1. The cuff is folded in half lengthwise, facing inward.
2. Stitch along the edge, leaving the stitch line open.
3. The seam allowance is put in, ironed.
4. We sweep the part by inserting a section of the sleeve between the cuff allowances.
5. Attached.
6. Try on and punch buttons.
7. Sew short straps on the top of the cuffs.

Important! The bottom of the sleeve can also be made with elastic - then the cuff is not needed, and the cut just needs to be hemmed by 1.5-2 cm.

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We make a fastener

In principle, a jacket is ready if it is zipped. But you can do otherwise - make, for example, Velcro or do what old tourists did - sew stylish large buttons. But then you will need to immediately process the weld loops. However, the classic parka is still zipped, and detachable.

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Bring to mind

Just a few steps left:

• to sew a waist belt to the seamy side is just a strip in which long sections are bent and ironed to the seamy side, after which the part is sewn along the waist line;
• to process the bottom - you can hem;
• Sew the bracelets to the places reserved for them;
• insert the cord into the waist belt and the front of the hood.

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Jacket Options

This was a description of the simplest park. But other options are possible - for example, with a permanent or detachable lining. They will be somewhat more complicated, but if you find, for example, not very thick faux fur. Everything can be done very quickly.

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What can be sewn from the park?

There are directly opposite options. Do you have an old park, which for some reason you don’t already wear, but it’s a pity to throw it away - what can be done from it?

The easiest option is to sew a jacket for the child. In this case, you need to follow one simple rule - a similar one is hidden from each part, and elements that require special care should be used completely in general. These are valves, straps and the like.

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Stock footage

In short, to sew a park is not so impossible. The most important thing is to dare and pay special attention to small details, because it is from them that the corporate appearance of outerwear largely depends.