How to sew a coat of cashmere?

Cashmere is a true favorite of the fall and spring fashion collections of the last decade. This material, known for many centuries, has gained a second life. Working with it has some subtleties, especially when it comes to outerwear. From the article you will learn how to sew a coat of cashmere.

to contents ↑

What is cashmere?

Cashmere is a rather thin, light, but extremely warm fabric. They make it from the down of mountain goats in a special way. The material is quite expensive. It is this circumstance that sometimes scares beginner needlewomen - a few wrong actions, and the money is thrown into the wind. But, as they say, eyes are afraid, and hands do. If you already know how to handle a sewing machine and have some skills in processing fabrics - nothing prevents you from undertaking such work.

From cashmere you can sew:

• classic coat - single-breasted or double-breasted;
• poncho coat;
• cape coat.

Important! The last two models are made without a pattern. Cashmere is perfectly draped, and in addition, it is double-sided, which can greatly facilitate your task.

to contents ↑

DIY cashmere coat pattern

If you want to sew a classic coat, of course, you need a pattern. The question always arises: where can I get it?

• To work with such a beautiful and expensive fabric, it is best to order patterns in the studio, where an experienced master will make them strictly by your standards.
• A good option is with a pattern from the magazine - by the way, in the best fashion publications you will certainly find drawings and descriptions of how to work with this rather capricious fabric.

Important! It’s not worth building patterns on your own in this case - it’s very easy to make mistakes in the calculations, and then all the work will go down the drain. If you still decide to try, find some old handicraft publication, where the process is described in detail.

to contents ↑

Rules for any cashmere coat

Regardless of which model you choose, you need to consider some features of working with this material. Very important:

• wet-heat treatment (ironing of seams and the like);
• a way to duplicate some details;
• sequence of operations.

Important! Iron is your first mate. In this case, almost all nodes are ironed, as well as complex elements. Some details duplicate so that they better keep their shape. Cashmere itself is soft and drapes perfectly, but the appearance of products depends on such trifles as cuffs, collars, valves, trims - they must be made very high quality and clearly. As for the sequence of operations, it must be strictly observed. It is more convenient to sew some small parts when the product is not yet assembled.

to contents ↑

Materials

Which fabric to choose? Since the cashmere coat is sewn for several seasons, you need to choose a color that suits you and, at the same time, does not bother. A great option - natural shades. Among them, it is easy to find those that are to face, while you do not want to give your creation to a friend or relative in a week.

to contents ↑

Take measurements

For a classic coat you need to know:

• girths of the chest, hips, waist and neck;
• product length;
• sleeve length;
• armhole height;
• girth of the wrist.

Important! To build a pattern yourself, you will need some more measurements, but this is usually indicated in the publication. For modern models, measurements are needed less - for example, for a one-piece coat it is enough to know the hips, the length of the product and the length of the sleeve, and for a coat-cape - the width of the shoulders and the length of the product. But it is better, of course, to immediately take and record all the measurements so that they are always at hand.

to contents ↑

How much fabric do you need?

Consumption of tissue is a very important point. Cashmere is often done without a pattern that needs to be customized, which greatly simplifies the calculations. Coat fabrics usually have a width of 140-150 cm. For a classic coat, you need to take two lengths, plus add another ten centimeters to the belt and processing details.

Typically, consumption is slightly less than 2 m. In addition to the main fabric, you will need:

• lining material - about 30 cm less than cashmere;
• doublerin (possible in pieces, only need about 1 m).

to contents ↑

Coat

In order to sew a coat of cashmere with your own hands, you must first cut it. Cashmere has a pile, even a small one. When cutting, this circumstance must be taken into account. On the finished product, the villi should look down.

Important! A different arrangement gives a strange effect - if the hairs are located up, the color in different parts of the future product will randomly change. This, of course, can be an interesting design idea, but the process is very difficult to control.

to contents ↑

Two words about duplication

Some details will have to be duplicated, regardless of style. It all depends on your preferences. There are actually several ways:

• glue;
• glueless;
• organza pads.

Important! The most convenient option is adhesive duplication. The gasket part is simply ironed with steam.

to contents ↑

Wet heat treatment

When working with cashmere, it is very important to iron it correctly, then the product itself will take the necessary forms. It should be noted that processing must certainly be wet - cashmere does not tolerate dry ironing very well. This should be taken into account when caring for the finished product, as well as a few more principles:

• This fabric does not like strong pressure - the pile is smoothed, and giving it the desired shape becomes problematic.
• Ironing should only be from the wrong side.
• Need a special iron nozzle designed for delicate ironing.
• The temperature controller is placed on the division "wool".
• It is necessary to use a cardolent - a special device with small spikes, this allows the villi not to crumple.
• Ironed seams must not be allowed to protrude on the front side ..

Important! You can’t iron cashmere too intensely - all the details need to be ironed, but it is important to observe the measure.

to contents ↑

Start sewing

Any coat of cashmere with your own hands begins with duplication of details. And the first thing to do is a collar and sleeves. But first, you need to set the optimal temperature for ironing:

1. Take the scrap left after cutting.
2. Cut a gasket along its contours.
3. Lay the cashmere upside down.
4. Put a gasket on it so that the contours match.
5. Set the iron control to the “wool” mark.
6. Connect the steam, and it is important that the vaporization is average and not maximum.
7. Duplicate the shred, determining the optimal modes of the iron - just put the iron on the shred and count to ten.
8. Remove the iron.
9. Check if the gasket is stuck and the pile is wrinkled.
10. If it doesn’t stick or something is wrong with the pile, try again by changing the modes.

Important! When duplicating, the part cannot be ironed - the iron is simply rearranged from one section to another.

to contents ↑

Duplicate the details

Collar duplication is no different from what you just did with a shred.The bottom of the sleeves is strengthened in the same way. Paired parts are simply folded with the front side inwards, and then duplicated.

Thus should be processed:

• shelves;
• top of the back;
• top collar;
• lower collar;
• pick up.

Important! After the details are processed, you need to let them cool, and only then proceed with sewing.

to contents ↑

Sleeves

Where to begin? You can, for example, from the sleeve. In a classic coat, it consists of three parts, that is, two seams are made. Working with this part will allow you to get comfortable with wet-heat treatment - the seam of the sleeve is not particularly noticeable, so your coat is not at risk if the first pancake turns out lumpy:

1. Sew the longest seam.
2. Spread the sleeve on the card strip with the wrong side up.
3. Gently straighten the seam with your hand and lay it straight.
4. Your halyards form - do not touch them and do not touch them with an iron.
5. Flatten the seam - this must be done from top to bottom, strictly along the line.
6. When steaming, pull the smaller part of the sleeve slightly towards you, but not too much.
7. Turn out a detail.
8. Smooth the pile along the seam with your hand.
9. Turn the sleeve out again.
10. Since the allowance will be sealed, cut it to the width of the hem on one side.
11. Iron the hem allowance.
12. Sew the second seam and sew it the same way.

Important! A very useful thing is the molding pillow, which allows the bottom of the sleeve not to stretch: its circumference is about 1 cm less than the bottom line of the sleeve.

to contents ↑

Collar

Since you have already duplicated both parts, proceed as follows:

1. Fold the top and bottom collars with the front sides.
2. Sweep the details.
3. Sew them, and the line must be laid from the bottom of the collar.
4. In the corners, lay additional threads.
5. Unstitch the seams.
6. Trim the lower collar allowance.
7. Pull out the corners (for this you laid the threads there).
8. Unfasten the collar, laying it between two pieces of a card tape.

to contents ↑

Collar and collar

You have already glued the cashmere coat selection, but they can be strengthened with another layer - with adhesive tape along the side line:

1. Cut out the back.
2. Glue it with doubler.
3. Sweep the shoulder seams of the coat itself, hem and bows.
4. Iron it all up by the rules.
5. Chip the bead and pick up until split - the cleavage line should be perpendicular to the seam.
6. Stitch the pick up to the flank - the line lies on the side of the pick.
7. Just as when stitching collar parts, lay the threads in the corners of the lapels.
8. In the corners of the pick and bead, make notches.
9. Pin the bottom collar to the neck.
10. Stitch the bottom collar.
11. Pin the top collar by inserting a hinge loop in the middle.
12. Sew short collar seams.
13. Make a notch along the neckline.
14. Make the same notches by turning the back.
15. Turn out a collar, unstick all details and knots.
16. Flatten the seam allowances between the kits and the sides.
17. Twist the lapels.
18. Handle the jar - just steam it off.
19. Chop or sweep the collar's stitching line.
20. Stitch this seam.

to contents ↑

Stitch the sleeve

If you decide to make a finishing stitch at all seams, do it before embroidering the sleeve. But this is not necessary, although beautiful.

The sleeve is sewn in the same way as in any other product of this type:

1. We sweep the part - we do it the same way as in the manufacture of any other product, that is, first we sew the okat with a basting seam, we combine all the points that are indicated on the pattern, we sew or weave it.
2. Try on, if necessary - correct.
3. We grind the seam, gently smooth the seam allowances from the wrong side.

to contents ↑

Clasp

The clasp can be buttons or buttons. The latter option is now especially popular:

1. Mark the locations for the buttons on the selections.
2. Sew buttons, capturing only the pick and not touching the sides.
3. Sew buttons with notches on the left side, on the right side - those that will be inserted into them.

If you have a button closure, the size of the buttonhole should be about 2 mm smaller than the diameter of the button. The loops are stitched on a typewriter with a special seam, and then cut through - but in the absence of such a function, you can also process them manually.

Important! From the outside, you can sew decorative buttons.

to contents ↑

We sew a lining

The lining when sewing a coat of cashmere is going in the same order as the main layer, only after you have connected the main details, this process will seem like baby talk to you. The only thing to keep in mind at all times is that the lining allowances must be in contact with the wrong side of the coat.

Important! You can sew it both manually by a blind seam, and on a typewriter.

After everything is ready, the coat must be finally ironed. In addition, you will need a sleeve platform for the ironing board. The order will be as follows:

1. Iron the sleeve lining allowance.
2. Unfasten the lines along which the lining was sewn, starting with the neckline from the back side.
3. Smooth the edges of the sides.
4. Iron the bottom of the pad.
5. Hang the coat on your shoulders and steam it off with a steam generator or light touches of the iron.

Important! The very last step is best done on a mannequin.

to contents ↑

Other types of coats

Other coats can also be sewn from cashmere, and without any patterns, tucks and bows. For example, a one-piece coat pattern is a cross with a cutout in the middle and a long cut. You can cut it directly on the fabric, but since the material is quite expensive, it is better to do it first on a graph paper or a sheet of old wallpaper:

1. Draw around the middle of the sheet a long horizontal line.
2. Divide it in half.
3. Draw perpendiculars to either side of this point and set aside the length of the product.
4. Through these points, draw two lines parallel to the first.
5. On each side of each mark, set aside the hip circumference divided by 4, plus another 5 cm for loose fitting and allowances.
6. Draw perpendiculars to these new points until they intersect with the first horizontal line - the base for the shelf and back is ready.
7. From the intersection of the main horizontal with these new lines, set aside the length of the sleeve.
8. Draw perpendiculars through these points - naturally, they will be parallel to the side slices that you already have.
9. Set aside half the sleeve width on each side.
10. Connect these new points with the side slices - the cross is ready.
11. The time has come to tackle the neck - for this you need to return to the point that divides the main horizontal line in half.
12. On both sides set aside the girth of the neck divided by 4.
13. Set aside another 2 cm in each direction.
14. From the midpoint, circle a vertical line perpendicular to it to the bottom - this will be a cut, respectively - there will be shelves on this side.
15. On the back side from the midpoint, set aside 2 cm to the bottom.
16. Connect this point with the edges of the neck of the arc.
17. On the front side, set aside 3 cm along the same line and draw an arc too.

Actually, the pattern is ready. Lay it out on a cloth and cut a coat with one piece. Having circled the incision and the neckline from the front side by about a third, you will get a pick pattern. But it is not necessary to do it - you can simply process all the details with a grinder. The bottom of the sleeve is hemmed. Large buttons will look very good on such a coat, although it can be without buttons at all, just with a wide belt.

to contents ↑

Stock footage

In a word, there is no need to be afraid of such fabrics. Yes, they belong to the category of expensive, and their processing has some features. But the result is amazing, even if you sew the simplest product.