How to sew a man’s coat with your own hands? Patterns and description of models

Making men's clothing is a special genre. If you are thinking about how to sew a man’s coat with your own hands, patterns in most cases are needed, especially if you are going to do something traditional. But modern fashion is democratic, it did not bypass even the most notorious fans of the classics. Fashion designers offer interesting styles, including outerwear for the stronger sex, without patterns. Sewing men's clothing has its own characteristics, which will be discussed in our article.

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Two words about the coat

Sewing a man’s coat with your own hands is not so difficult if you carefully approach the matter. For starters, a little about what a coat is and where it came from. This type of clothing was invented by the Spaniards. They liked the loose hooded cloak called the palletoque. The clothes also pleased the French, they adopted and improved such a useful thing, and at the same time changed the name in their own way.

France has been a trendsetter for many centuries, the European nobility has taken the example of Versailles, so the aristocrats were the first to wear coats, and throughout Europe. In France itself, a coat has become an integral part of uniforms.

Important! Most of all, this indispensable item in cold weather was liked by the British, who created the vast majority of classic models. This is evidenced by some names - a half-coat-spencer, invented by Count Spencer. And the name of Field Marshal Raglan went down in history not so much because of his military exploits, but because of the coat style he had invented, where instead of the usual sleeve at that time, a straight line from the neck was used.

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Choose a model

Of course, before you sew a man’s coat with your own hands, you need to choose a style. And there are only two options:

• come up with something of your own;
• Find a suitable model in a magazine or on a specialized site.

The first option is suitable if you have at least a little experience in sewing specifically men's clothing. Those who got down to business for the first time, it is better to choose a ready-made option from a good magazine, in which you will find a full description of the technology.

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Work stages

Sewing a man’s coat with your own hands can be divided into several steps:

• model selection;
• taking measurements;
• building or fitting patterns;
• the choice of fabric for the top layer, lining, as well as accessories;
• making a draft version;
• fitting and fitting to a figure;
• final assembly of the top layer;
• manufacturing and joining the pad;
• final finishing;
• final fitting.

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Taking measurements

Even if you have chosen a ready-made model for which there is a pattern, you need to take measurements. It’s best to write them down so that you’ll be at hand if in the future you want to sew something again.

A set of measurements to sew a men's coat is quite traditional:

• length of the product;
• chest girth;
• hip girth;
• waist circumference
• neck circumference;
• shoulder width;
• sleeve width at the top;
• shoulder length;
• the length of the sleeve;
• girth of the wrist;
• side seam length from armpit to waist;
• back height.

Important! The hips are measured on the most protruding parts, and the length of the sleeve - on the arm bent at the elbow.

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Fabric selection

If you have chosen a model in a magazine, it usually indicates which fabric is best to sew from. The best option is to choose just such material as it is written, because the designers developed manufacturing technology specifically for him. But the sale of the necessary material may not be. Therefore, it is useful to know which fabrics can be used. Fit:

• drape;
• tweed;
• raincoat fabric;
• gabardine.

Important! Very often in stores on the price tags it is not the name of the material that is written, but the type - “coat fabric”. These materials are suitable for both women's and men's outerwear - you just have to choose a color.

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Fabric calculation

All the main details of a men's coat are cut along a shared thread. An exception is some trim details that can be cut obliquely. Coat fabrics are quite expensive, and nobody wants to pay for the surplus. But we must not allow that the material was not enough - if you have to buy more, you need drapes or gabardine on sale may not be available. Therefore, accurate calculation is so important:

1. Take the largest horizontal measure - it depends on the figure, in men it is most often the girth of the chest or doubled the width of the shoulders.
2. Add to her doubled sleeve width.
3. Add another 10-12 centimeters to allowances - this will be the necessary cut width.
4. Further, the calculation is quite simple - if the sum of the measurements is less than the cut-off width that you see in the store, you will need one length, plus another 30 cm for processing the bottom, trim and overhead parts.
5. In all other cases, you must buy 2 product lengths.

Important! The calculation of the fabric for the lining is done in the same way.

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Materials for cutting and sewing

So, you already have a pattern, moreover, re-captured in the most thorough way, with all the designations - tucks, tucks, points of fit for the sleeve, etc. You can get to work. You need:

1. tailor's line;
2. tailor pins;
3. crayon or soap;
4. sewing machine;
5. tailor's scissors;
6. needles and threads of appropriate thickness and quality.

Important! The thickness and type of thread depends entirely on what material you are going to sew from:

• For drape, gabardine and other similar materials, cotton threads No. 20 or No. 30 are preferable.
• For raincoat fabric, finer synthetics are quite suitable.

Needles are selected under the thread, and not vice versa.

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Cut

How to download free cut from burda magazine? Like any other fabric, the coat should be folded in half lengthwise, aligning the edges. Farther:

1. Overlay the details of the pattern - the middle line of the back should coincide with the fold of the fabric, next to it are the shelf, sleeves and fit, if they are cut according to the finished patterns.
2. For the belt and patch pockets, it is also better to make patterns and lay them out in free places, but also on the share.
3. Pin the patterns with tailor pins so that they do not move.
4. Circle all the details, adding 1.5-2 cm allowances at all seams except the bottom and sleeves if they are hemmed.
5. Apply all the alignment points - on the sleeves and armholes, on the side seams, etc., it is better to mark them with a few short but noticeable stitches.
6. Cut out all the details.

If the pick is not cut according to the finished patterns:

1. Put a pattern of shelves on the fabric.
2. Circle it from the shoulder to the neck, along the section of the fastener to the bottom, and also the bottom itself at a distance of 5-10 cm from the fastener.
3. Then, along the ruler, connect the end of this segment from the place where you started the stroke, that is, from the neck.
4. Leave seam allowances on all sides.

Important! The lining is exactly the same as the base layer.

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Assembly

You need to start assembling the coat with the main layer. On male products there are also tucks. If they are, it is necessary to start with them - to outline and schedule. Further, the order will be normal:

1. Sweep and stitch the shoulder and side seams.
2. Iron allowances, and if necessary, overcast (some coat fabrics do not crumble, so allowances can simply be cut evenly).
3. Try on what you did - most likely, at this stage no adjustment is required, you just need to make sure that everything is going according to plan.
4. Stitch long sleeve seams, iron allowances.
5. Sew around the sleeve sleeve with a basting seam with small stitches, pull it slightly.
6. Sweep the sleeves into the armholes, carefully aligning the alignment points.
7. Try on the product and adjust it, paying special attention to the connection of the armhole and the ridge - the sleeve should not be too tight.
8. If everything suits you, sew both sleeves.
9. Assemble the lining.
10. Another important point is the fit of the collar, if it is provided for in style, and to begin with, both parts of the collar must be sewn together on the wrong side, leaving the edge that will be sewn to the neck open.
11. Cut allowances close to the seam, and diagonally at the corners.
12. Turn out a collar and iron.
13. Iron openings allowance.
14. Take note of the pick by folding them and the details of the shelf with the front sides and aligning the assembly points.
15. Stitch, trim allowances and iron seams.
16. Insert the edge of the neck along with the edges of the collars into the open cut of the collar.
17. Sew and stitch part of the collar from the back.
18. Sew and stitch the top of the collar very close to the edge.
19. Cut and stitch the loops - note that men's clothing is fastened in the wrong direction that women's.

Sleeve Processing

Two options are possible:

• cuffs;
• binder.

Cuffs can be different:

• from the same fabric;
• furry;
• knitted;
• leather.

Important! The easiest option is to make them from the same fabric, then you will not have to think whether they are combined with a collar or not. All other types will look good if there are other details made of the same material - collar, pockets, belt, decorative elements.

Operating procedure:

1. Cut 4 rectangles. Their length is equal to the length of the lower cut of the sleeve, the width is arbitrary (from 5 to 15 cm).
2. Fold the parts in pairs with the wrong sides, matching all the sections.
3. Stitch on three sides - two short and one long, which will be from the bottom.
4. Cut allowances close to the edge, diagonally at the corners.
5. Turn out a detail.
6. Stitch the workpiece along the stitched sides, 0.5 cm from the edge.
7. Iron open cut allowances inward.
8. Sew first the part of the cuff that will be on the wrong side, and then the outer cuff close to the edge. You can apply the finishing line.

Bottom

The bottom can simply be hemmed. If the fabric does not crumble, it is enough to bend the allowance on the wrong side by 3-5 cm and stitch it. You can use another fabric - cut a strip with a length equal to the length of the lower cut plus 2-3 cm and a width of 7-10 cm. The allowance that will be sewn to the main layer is best ironed immediately on the wrong side, as well as allowances on the short sides .

Farther:

1. Fold the coat and strip with the sides facing each other.
2. Stitch them all the way.
3. Iron the strip on the wrong side.
4. Stitch along the strip along the open edge.

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A few words about other styles

Some models of men's coats can be sewn at all without a pattern, or according to greatly simplified patterns. To make a raglan coat is much easier than a style with a set-in sleeve.

The simplest option is one-piece outerwear. In fact, a one-piece coat consists of five rectangles - a back, two shelves and two sleeves:

• It’s easy to cut the back, this side of the rectangle has one side equal to the length of the product, and the second to the largest half-girth (chest or shoulder width), plus 6-10 cm for loose fitting, plus allowances.
• Calculating the width of the front is also easy - you need to measure the width of the back, divide it in half and add 10-15 cm to the fastener.

As for the sleeves, they are cut like this:

1. Mark the neckline on the short sides of the shelf and back - for example, laying aside from the middle of the back and one of the corners of the shelf 15 cm. What remains to the other corner will be a shoulder seam.
2. Sweep the shoulder seams.
3. Try the blank on your model.
4. Mark the width of the sleeve on both sides on all parts - this point should be just below the armpit.
5. Measure the cutoff distance between these points.
6. From the end of the shoulder seam, which in this case will be underestimated, measure the length of the sleeve along the bent arm to the wrist.
7. Cut 2 rectangles of the desired size.

Important! The manufacturing technology will be the same as for a coat with a set-in sleeve. But we must pay attention to the fact that in the manufacture of such clothes you need to be very careful about the details. Everything should be done very carefully, otherwise - the product will look rude and amateurish.

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Stock footage

If you have the opportunity and desire, then even such a difficult task as how to sew a man’s coat with your own hands will be within your power. Act carefully, clearly calibrating the measurements, slowly working with the fabric, then the result will be successful! Good luck in your endeavors!